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If it is, I think I'd take up another hobby. However, that poor girl who was recently bitten by a shark and lost part of her arm could not wait to surf again. I guess that's what it's like you love something. I had a few accidents on horses but still kept riding. A friend was even worse--by accident her horse kicked her when we went to take them out of turnout and he knocked out a couple of teeths, broke her jaws, but within two weeks she was out trail riding again with her jaws still wired.
That's a nice size shark!!!
Fran in NY
and sorry to hear about your friend!
are you riding AT ALL anymore?